Saturday, September 10, 2016

Avalon and the Artistry II®

This is our fifth river cruise. We’ve done three on Viking and one on Vantage. I’ll give a quick overview of our ship and what stood out about Avalon. The Artistry II® was built in 2013 with 12 staterooms and 52 suites (actually 50 large rooms and 2 suites). The ship holds 128 passengers and 37 crew. On our cruise 10 of the cabins were unoccupied. The Avalon large staterooms are 200 square feet. The ship is 110 meters (361 feet) long and 11.4 meters (37 feet) wide. Maximum ship dimensions are set by the locks they have to pass through. Ships can be longer (135 meters), but not any wider. 

We were in cabin 216—portside, middle deck, towards the back of the ship (or abaft as they say in crossword puzzles). This was the largest stateroom we’ve enjoyed in our five cruises. Avalon is somewhat unique in having its beds face the window and having very large windows so that we effectively have a balcony that you can close off, reclaiming the space as part of your stateroom .  Avalon has also pulled a neat trick by slanting the wall that the bed backs up to. It really expands the bathroom and especially the shower (see layout below). Larry and Ann were right across the hall in cabin 215. 

There’s a 220 volt outlet in the bathroom and two  220 volt outlets in the room—one on the desk and one beside the bed on the side away from the door. Needless to say, we have LOTS of stuff plugged in. There’s a wall-mounted flat screen television with English language news channels, movies, etc. 

Public areas
The layout is pretty typical. Deck plans are on the Avalon site. There is a nice lounge at the back of the ship on the third deck where there’s always coffee and cookies. Just outside of it is a sitting area where smokers are allowed. Some friends of ours tried it this afternoon and left pretty quickly due to the diesel fumes. At the front of the second deck—just outside the lounge—is a very nice seating area that’s shaded with comfortable chairs. It has seating for about 18 people. There are chest high glass plates that help to block the wind. 
Lounge at front of ship
Omelet cook at breakfast buffet

Breakfast buffet bread station

Dining room

Lounge

Lounge

Lounge bar

Reception

Things that stand out for Avalon: 
The rooms. Except for rooms on the bottom deck, all staterooms (Avalon likes to call them suites) are 200 square feet. The bed faces the window, and the slanted bathroom wall really does make a big difference. Vikings Veranda rooms are 205 square feet, but that includes an outside balcony. Their French balcony rooms are only 135 square feet. Most river cruise cabins are 150-165 square feet. 

No announcements. Generally there are no announcements. You’re given information you need in the evening port talk and in the daily that appears on your bed while you’re dining, and Avalon assumes that you’re an adult and that you can follow directions. 

QuietVox replaced with Meder Commtech devices. No more “Can you hear me now?” Turn it off and turn it back on again.” “No, move over here and turn it off and turn it back on again.” etc. Devices are kept at registration desk. Pick up a color-coded device as you leave the ship. Turn it back in when you return. Colors are specific to tour groups. Devices are preset on the correct channel. If you start getting interference during the tour, the guide can simply say, “Change to chanel 5.” You rotate the little indicator to 5, and you’re good to go. The system uses a standard headphone jack, so you can use your iPhone ear buds if you want. Also, a charger doesn’t take up one of the outlets in your room. 

No sales talk! We didn’t have a lecture that all of a sudden started talking about all the other wonderful Avalon cruises we could take, and guess what, if you book now, you get an additional $100 off. 

Décor. Avalon’s décor fits somewhere between the stark simplicity of a Viking longship, and the fru-fru over the top style of Uniworld. 

Panorama Stateroom (professional photo)


Passenger count: 128 passengers max. This is, of course true only for the 110 meter ships, but even the 135 meter ships (same length as Viking’s longships) hold 166 people vs. Viking’s 190. This translates into more public space and extras like hair salon and exercise rooms. For our trip we had only 80 passengers. 

“Stepped” sun deck: The front section of the Artistry II’s sun deck is a few feet lower than the larger back section. That’s not much, but for passengers it means that some of you can stay on the sun deck even through river sections with low bridges. I may be wrong, but it’s my understanding that on Viking’s Grand European, the entire sun deck is closed for a week when traversing the Main-Danube Canal. For a ship like the Artistry II®. The front portion of the deck is open all the time. 


Lower sun deck area

Lower sun deck behind wheel house

Lower sun deck in front of wheel houser


Avalon vs. Viking vs. Vantage Comparisons
Finally, a quick comparison of the three lines based on our five cruises. 

Ship: Avalon a clear winner. We liked the size, decor, staterooms, and public spaces better on Avalon. 

Dining: Avalon and Viking similar and a little better than Vantage. Of course, Viking offers free beer and wine at lunch and dinner, whereas it's only free at dinner with Avalon if that's important to you. Vantage gets dinged for letting groups reserve the best tables for the entire cruise. 

Excursions: Vantage may have an advantage here. For example, in Amsterdam, Avalon and Viking both offered canal cruises with a walking tour. Vantage's standard tour started with a guided tour of the Rijksmuseum with free time afterwards. We then walked across the street and boarded canal boats for the cruise and were dropped off a block from the ship. One negative for Vantage was that they often had long bus rides. For instance, the day before we did our Trier excursion, we were docked at Schweich, about 15 minutes from Trier. The next morning when we got ready to leave for the excursion, we were docked in Bernkastel, over an hour away. Why didn't we just stay in Schweich and have more time to spend in Trier? I wondered if anyone had a map. 

Onboard Entertainment/Lectures: Here, I'd probably rank Viking at the top, with Avalon a close second, followed by Vantage. On our 12 day Vantage cruise, we had one good entertainment night out of four. Two were just OK, and the final one was terrible. 

Passenger Demographics: Obviously this is subjective, but we give Avalon the nod. Fairly young (river cruise wise) group, mostly Americans, but a significant number of Canadians, British, and Australians. Both Viking and Vantage were almost all Americans. Also Vantage's demographic was significantly older. 

Staff/Service: We've had consistently diligent, friendly, and efficient staff on all our cruises. This includes room stewards, restaurant staff, and hotel staff. I think that the key is the cruise director. We've had two great ones, two average ones, and one not-so-good director. The one bad director was very young, and one wonders if he was properly trained in a period of rapid expansion. The best was Hendrik, the director of our Avalon cruise. Number 2 was Monique, the director of our first Viking cruise. So for cruise director, it's the luck of the draw. 







Amsterdam

We arrived at our final stop around breakfast time again, and pulled into our slot and rafted up with a Scenic ship. 
Centraal Station from the sun deck
Early morning visitor

The Amsterdam excursion began with the standard canal boat cruise that ended at the Gassa Diamond Factory. From there people could either tour the diamond factory and shop or do a guided walking tour. Ann and Larry chose the walking tour, and since Vicki and I had been in Amsterdam earlier in the year we told the guide that we'd set off on our own and make our way back to the ship for lunch. We walked by our favorite places and dropped in on the Reypenaer cheese shop and tasting room. We decided to pick up some cheese for us and for Larry and Ann. When we went to pay, we mentioned that we'd attended their tasting in June, and they immediately cancelled the credit card transaction and redid it giving us the discount that people who've attended the tasting get. 

After lunch Avalon offered two optional excursions: Zaanse Schans and a escorted bicycle ride. Larry and Ann were interested in windmills, so we decided to do Zaanse Schans on our own. Instead of the 36 a person optional tour, we got round trip train tickets for €6.20 each. The walk from the ship to Centraal Station took about 5 minutes, the train ride was 20 minutes, and the walk from the Koog-Zaandijk station to Zaanse Schans was about 10 minutes. 
Train at Koog-Zaandijk

Some of the Zaanse Schans windmills


Ship group on the official tour
 We went into two windmills. One was an oil mill, and the other was a sawmill. Both were interesting. Before we left we visited the large cheese store there and sampled several tasty cheeses. Before taking the train back to Amsterdam
Crushing wheel in oil mill 

Saw mill 

One set of windmill driven saws

The woodworker checks it out


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After a final dinner on board we packed up and got ready to leave. We were scheduled for a 7:30 bus to the airport and had to have our luggage packed and outside the room at 6:45. The dining room opened for breakfast at the same time, so I got to enjoy one last omelet before leaving. 12 of us were on the bus for the airport, and we were all taking the same flight to Philadelphia. Check in and security went fine, and we were at the gate about an hour before our 10:45 flight. 

The flight was uneventful, and we parted with Ann and Larry at passport control as we headed to Nashville, and they flew to Dallas. We breezed through with Global Entry and took the bus to our terminal. All of us made our connections with no problems, and pulled into our driveway around 5:30. 

The blog is almost done. I'll do one more post about our impressions of Avalon and the ship. It was a great trip with people we love. We met new friends, saw new sights, and remembered why we love river cruising so much! 


Düsseldorf

After leaving Rüdesheim in the middle of the night, we passed Cologne around breakfast time with some nice views of new buildings along the river as well as the iconic cathedral. 



We made it to Dusseldorf around lunch time and left in coaches for our tour of the city. The first coach stop was at the Media Harbor (MedienHafen). It’s a recent addition to the city and features dramatic architecture. 









After our photo stop, we were bussed to the old city for a walking tour. Much of the city was bombed during World War II, so there’s not a lot of authentic old city to visit. Nevertheless, it was an interesting tour with some nice history of the city. 

"Twisted" steeple
Statue of guy on horse


The coaster on top of his beer tells the waiter that he's had enough

After the tour we strolled back to the ship rather than wait for the bus. We pulled out of the city around dinner time. 

Sailing to Rudesheim

The ship left Engers early on Monday morning headed for Rüdesheim. We passed the Marksburg castle south of Koblenz during breakfast and entered the “castle heavy” portion of the Rhine around 9:00. Cruise director Hendrik sat on the sun deck and gave commentary that was broadcast both on the deck and in the lounge. We had great weather. It was cloudy early and cleared off as we neared Rüdesheim. We passed a river cruise ship that looked familiar. I asked Hendrik about and it was indeed the former Viking MS Vienna. Before that it was the Avalon Tapestry. Apparently Avalon gave up on the design that featured a drive unit that was actually a separate vessel at the back of the hotel ship. It was supposed to minimize vibration. I’ve pasted photos of some of the castles and scenery below. I know that there are a lot of them, but I picked them out of almost 400!

Hendrik narrating the castle stretch of the Rhine



Marksburg Castle

Former Avalon Tapestry cruising the Rhine
Container ship
Maus Castle
Aggie checking out the castles



Rhine ferry



Obligatory Lorelei photo


Campers at the Lorelei 


Tunnel "camouflaged" in WWII to look like a castle
Church at Oberwesel






Rhinefels Castle
"Punishment" basket at Rhinefels
After lunch we had options in Rüdesheim. We were driven into town on the little Rudesheim train that all the cruise lines use. It dropped us off at our first option--Siegfred’s Mechanical Music Cabinet Museum. We could also take the cable car up to the Germania statue, or we could just shop and walk around. I opted for the cable car and Vicki, Larry, and Ann chose the museum. They thought that the museum show would be about an hour, but it only lasted 20 minutes. So they had plenty of time to shop in Rüdesheim. Vicki was really looking forward to the Käthe Wohlfahrt store, but it was something of a disappointment. The store looked really picked over, and the merchandise wasn’t nearly as nice as what she’d seen in other Käthe Wohlfahrt stores. 

The cable car ride up the mountain was quiet and relaxing. The views were very nice. After a walk to the statue that celebrates Germany’s unification in 1871, I ran into a couple from the ship who were walking back down to Rudesheim, and we did the walk through the vineyards together. 











I was back by about 3:00, and met up with the family in town. We thought about doing the Rudesheimer coffee tasting at 3:45, but decided to walk back to the ship instead and relax in the lounge. 

When we got back to the ship, the AmaLyra had pulled up beside us, so we spent the rest of the day and evening in close quarters. La Strada classical trio of two violins and a guitar played after dinner. The ship set sail for Düsseldorf around midnight. La Strada is really an organization that operates on cruise ships all over Europe. I’m guessing that all their trios do pretty much the same numbers and arrangements. They seem to be very popular among river cruisers.
Artistry II rafted with Amalyra